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OpenSCAD to DXF

There are many posts here which may not offer new information, but what they are is my information, usually gathered from other places, and with my own point of view. So with that said, here’s how I converted an OpenSCAD file designed to be used on a laser cutter into a DXF file. I put this out there as much for myself (so I know how to do it next time) as much as for others who might find the information useful.

Converting OpenSCAD files to DXF files

We’re going to start with a .scad file in OpenSCAD. I’m using this file from the Laser Cut Filament Spool, and even though there are DXF files available, I ended up tweaking the .scad file, so I had to create new DXF files.

Rendering the OpenSCAD file

We start by opening the plate.scad file in OpenSCAD and doing a Compile and Render (CGAL) command, which is what you would do with any .scad file.

DXF? Not yet!

Once your object appears, you might say “Hey look! There’s an ‘Export as DXF’ command under the Design menu.” Well, that won’t work because our object is a 3D object, not a 2D object. So we need a few extra steps.

Instead of exporting as a DXF, just export it as an STL file, which may be what you normally do if you use OpenSCAD for generating things you can print on your 3D printer.

Render the DXF!

Did you output the STL file? Good! We’re ready for the next step…

We’re going to create a new file in OpenSCAD. Name it something like plate2dxf.scad and use the following line of code:


projection(cut=false) import("/Users/pete/Spool/plate.stl");

(Obviously you’ll need to edit the path to the file to match your own situation. If you have the files in the same folder you can just use “plate.stl” instead of the full path.)

Run the Compile and Render (CGAL) command again, and wait… wait… wait… Yeah, it took 10 minutes for this file to render. It’s not a fast process.

Once this is done, you can now use the “Export as DXF” command and get a standard 2D DXF file suitable for other applications.

DXF in Inkscape

Here’s my DXF file loaded into Inkscape. I typically use Inkscape to work with files I plan to laser cut. There’s a good explanation of my process in the post Laser. Cut. Files. (Part III). And yeah, I could have used this method previously had I known about it.

Hat tip to Giles Bathgate for his post Extracting 2D mendel outlines using OpenSCAD which was a tremendous help.

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Sparkbooth – Button Renaming

Dropping this here so I remember and so I can point people her if needed…

Sparkboth - View Settings

In Sparkbooth (v3) you can change the text that appears on screen. For instance you can change the word “spacebar” to “button” if you need to.

Sparkbooth Settings

Once you click the settings icon, go under General to On-Screen Messages.

Sparkbooth - Push The Button

Change what you want to change… Done!

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A New Elbow

Arc-O-Matic

You may remember the Arc-O-Matic, an Arduino-powered drawing robot I built back in March for Gallery Night.

Well, things have been quiet on the Arc-O-Matic front for a while, and there are reasons for that. First, while shooting a video showing how it works, It started to fall apart. This was not unexpected. The whole thing was built in a few hours, and held together with hot glue and gaff tape. Failure was just a matter of time. Second, while it was in my workshop awaiting repair, one of the cats (ChaCha!) managed to knock it off a table onto the concrete floor, which made things worse.

But an important thing happened between the destruction of the Arc-O-Matic and now… I can easily 3D print things!

Elbow (old)

Here we see the old elbow mechanism, which consists of glue and tape. Pretty sad. It held up fine for Gallery Night, but it’s no permanent solution.

So my first idea for repair was to take some of the weight off the arm via the elbow joint. I thought about buying some ball casters but then realized I could just print my own! Here is one on Thingiverse, and here’s a photo of the one I printed. My initial idea was to just glue this on to the bottom of the micro-servo.

But when you’ve got a 3D printer, why stop there? I ended up designing a part that would hold the micro-servo, and allow the dowel to attach to it. See this photo.

Now, I know some of you still don’t get Google+, so here’s how it works. I posted my progress there, and someone who follows me mentioned a post about Florian Horsch printing a servo coupler on a Ultimaker. My first thought was, “crap, can I print that on my MakerGear Prusa?” And yes, I definitely can.

Elbow (new)

So here’s the result so far. A new elbow. The bottom piece holds the larger dowel and the micro-servo, while the top piece fits snugly onto the business end of the micro-servo and holds the smaller dowel. I’ve not yet attached the ball caster (which uses a marble) in this photo, but I tested attaching it to an earlier version using acetone to weld the plastic together. (I suppose a screw could be another option there.)

I’m hoping to get this thing rebuilt and working before the end of July (hint hint!) and once I’m pleased with all the pieces, I’ll write up some instructions, toss the files on Thingiverse, and hope someone else thinks it’s cool enough to play with.

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Spray Booth Reclaimed!

Spray Booth

I picked up an Artograph 1520 Spray Booth from the Hack Rack at Milwaukee Makerspace. Well, just the base of one, but the rest of the parts are fairly easy to DIY, so I did.

This spray booth lists for about $250 from various places, and if you use the 3 stage filter system you’ve got to get replacements at some point, and those aren’t cheap either. I don’t quite have a carbon-impregnated polyester filter for the third stage, and I still haven’t figured out the first stage pre-filter, but I grabbed one of my favorites, the super-cheap Ace Hardware 30 day furnace filter. The 20x25x1 is about $1.29 so even if I replace them pretty often, it’ll still be pretty darn cheap.

Ace Filter

I use the larger Ace filters in my big spray painting booth, and with a lot of painting I can still go weeks before I replace one. Those are a bit larger, but they’re still under $2.00 each. I did need to cut the 20x25x1 down just a bit to fit in the 1520, but only in one dimension, so that’s not too bad. Scissors is all you need to cut it. And as for the cardboard hood (which you can see is recycled from a Pelican case) I ended up tracing the one we have at work. (Yup, same model, it’s a popular one. I didn’t even bother with the slots and tabs for the hood, I just used some gaff tape to secure the edges together.

I’ll probably use the booth as our spray glue booth, as the larger spray booth is already doing great for spray paint, and I’d prefer not to mix those two mediums if possible.

So yeah, a bit of cardboard, gaff tape, a furnace filter, and a little bit of time, and I’ve got an excellent reconditioned Artograph 1520 Spray Booth.

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3D Printing Camp

3DPCWI

For me, this story starts back in October 2011 at BarCampMilwaukee6. A few of us stayed up the entire night with a MakerBot CupCake printing things. I’d pretty much caught the 3D printing bug at that point.

So when Bob Waldron pitched the idea of “3DPrintingCamp” I was interested. I helped launch the web site, and have contributed (at little bit) to organizing and attempting to get sponsors (I’ve got none yet) there’s still a lot of work to do before July 21st, 2012.

Yes, the date is July 21st, 2012. The location is Sector67 in Madison, Wisconsin. All the other details are at 3dprintingcampwi.com.

And what is 3DPrintingCamp? Well, it’s a participant-driven unconference focused on the emerging technology of 3D printing. You may be interested in 3D printing for personal fabrication of functional parts, or maybe you want to create beautiful objects that would fit in the “art” category. Perhaps you want to produce organs to save lives. The people involved in this event believe that 3D printing will change the world.

If this is all a bit above your head, that’s OK. Join us and learn about 3D printing technology. Find out what a spool of plastic and an open source bot can do for you.

Oh, this event is FREE, but you do need to register. As of my writing this we’ve got 41 people registered and we’re limited to 125 people max, so sign up now.

And if you’re interested in sponsoring, we could really use the help to make this event even more awesome… thanks!