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Rugged Parametric Box in OpenSCAD

Universal Parametric Rugged Box by Rainer Backes is perfect. Read more below if you need to.

Universal Parametric Rugged Box by Rainer Backes

I mentioned “Rugged Boxes” a bit in my Hardware Gridbox post, but the idea is basically a small box with a latch that is rugged, so it’s like a tiny Pelican case that you can print yourself.

It’s the sort of thing that if you want one a specific size for a specific use that someone else also needs, you might find it easily… but if you want it a custom size just for your specific application, well… you need to be able to adjust the design. There are a bunch of parametric designs that work with Fusion 360 (which I do not use) and I don’t know if Rugged Box (Parametric) by Whity is the original but it’s definitely quite popular.

Here’s an 80x80x60 version I printed, but I wanted something smaller. I tried this one but didn’t like it. So finally, we’ve got one that ticks all the boxes!

Universal Parametric Rugged Box by Rainer Backes is perfect. And by “perfect” I mean it’s written in OpenSCAD, and it works. At least my first print worked, as you can see by the photos. I haven’t pushed the design too hard yet, but being done in OpenSCAD means I can go crazy with it.

This saves me the trouble of having to write my own, which I did start working on. While I do enjoy designing objects I also enjoy finding code that someone else wrote that does exactly what I need. It looks like Rainer has a bunch of models written in OpenSCAD, so I may need to dig through the others for inspiration. Thanks, Rainer Backes!

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xtouch Controller for P1S

As I mentioned in my post about the Bambu Lab P1S the control panel leaves a lot to be desired… I also mentioned I might try the xtouch controller, and I did, and it works great.

You can grab the code from the xtouch GitHub repo and if you’re lucky like I was it’ll just freaking work on the first attempt. I say this only because I joined a Facebook group for the xtouch and like all Facebook groups there seem to be a number of people who just cannot get things to work. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to set up.

By the way, these “Cheap Yellow Displays” were recently covered on Hackaday in the post “Cheap Yellow Display” Builds Community Through Hardware which is worth a look if you have other ideas.

I printed this Bambu Lab P1P/P1S/X1C Touch Screen Desk Stand (xTouch) and I have it sitting on my desk for now as a remote monitor. I’m not even sure I will attach it to the printer as most people seem to do.

My only gripe is that it doesn’t do more, but it sounds like that’s not really the developers fault, and they are working on improvements and limited to what the printer can do via MQTT but honestly for an open source project on this cheap hardware (I think mine was under $13 USD) it’s a nice addition.

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Framed Hapto Cone Art

Hapto has been working on a project using cut up bits of orange traffic cones to do relief prints, and asked if she could try using my Provisional Press to see if it would work well as an alternative to hand burnishing prints. So I packed up the press and took it to Milwaukee Makerspace (Norwich Edition) to give it a try.

Hapto did all of the printing, and I just watched, after giving a quick lowdown on the press and how it works compared to a more “normal” press with adjustable knobs and a moving bed and all of that.

She made a whole bunch of prints! And the verdict was that the Provisional Press would probably work quite well for her printing needs. Note that she printed on fabric that had retro-reflective material on it and had been treated with various paints to get the crazy color. She also used fabric block printing ink. The last time I did relief print patches I just used regular water based ink because it was all I had.

The nice thing about working with another artist is that you can teach and learn at the same time. I picked up a few techniques for printing, and I told her about how vegetable glycerine can help slow the drying of water based inks…

I got to take a print home and I figured I should frame it. Since I’ve been working on an OpenSCAD script to help me create 3D printed frames I thought I would give it a try.

The frame consists of two parts, the frame itself, and the back piece that fits into place.

The two images above show the “front” facing parts of the design, and the two images below show the back sides of the pieces. It’s pretty darn simple, and yes… I know there are other 3D printed frames out there, but I (as usual) wanted to design my own… in OpenSCAD… and make it parametric.

The ridges you see around the inside piece are meant to help create a press-fit so no additional hardware is needed. It’s a good idea to make them a little too large and then sand/shave them down for a perfect fit if you want it removable. Otherwise you can always glue it in place. I’ve also managed to laser cut some clear acrylic that can be placed into the frame before the artwork just like a standard store-bought frame. Without the acrylic I just spray glued the print to the back plate of the frame to hold it in place.

I’m glad Hapto invited me to do an art thing with her, and appreciate the print I received. After framing the piece it is now on the wall of my office right next to a piece of my own art.

Note: I realized I failed to get a photo of a relief carved traffic cone printing plates that Hapto created so here’s a photo she shared from a previous printing run.


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Power Mac G5 Side Panel Wall Hanger

For me, 3D printing represents niche custom things that solve problems, sometimes for a few people and sometimes for just one person.

While cleaning the shop I found this old side panel from a Mac… well, a Mac Pro, or a Power Mac. I wasn’t actually sure, but I got some help. (It’s from a Power Mac G5!)

I had wanted to hang this on the wall years ago, so I figured now was the time. I took some quick measurements, spent a few minutes in OpenSCAD, and 25 minutes later had a piece that fit and was suitable for hanging.

I used four 3mm x 14mm bolts, two to hold the bracket in place, and two at the bottom of the panel so it would sit away from the wall a consistent amount.

I honestly don’t know if anyone else will ever use the file, but I figured I would share it anyway. So I did.

You can get the STL and .scad file from Printables.com – Power Mac G5 Side Panel Wall Hanger. Print it if you need it!

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Hardware Gridbox

After I got the Bambu Lab P1S I stress tested it a bit with the 3D Printed Pegboard but before that project I actually printed this Gridbox which uses the Gridfinity organizational system.

The way Gridfinity works is that there is a grid (duh) and you print bins or other “things” that fit into the grid. The bins can be 1×1 or 2×1 or 4×4 or whatever fits into the grid. I actually used Gridfinity Rebuilt in OpenSCAD to generate these little bins because I prefer OpenSCAD to Fusion 360.

I scaled the height of the bins to the internal height of the Gridbox. I can tip the box over and all the hardware stays where it should. Almost. The washers are small and thin enough they occasionally end up in the top part of the bin where the labels are. I could probably solve this by gluing a piece of foam inside the top lid so it closes and provides just an extra bit of cushion. I may try that… If I did this again I would perhaps alter the bins just a bit to have flatter tops since I won’t be stacking these bins.

This really is a great way to store all of my 3mm hardware. As I’ve mentioned in other recent posts, I’m really trying to organize my shop and maximize efficiency. Before this I kept all the hardware in individual bags and then in a larger bag, which meant pulling out all the bags, grabbing the one I wanted, opening that bag, getting the hardware, etc. Again, let’s make this easy. I can also see how much hardware I have in each size easily, as compared to being stuffed into bags.

This Gridbox is a really nice design. I used the 4×4 version and will probably make another for my 2.5mm and 2mm hardware. There’s also a version that allows for a clear acrylic laser cut piece to fit into the top lid so you can see what’s inside. I don’t need that for my hardware, but it is a useful feature.

The model is based on the Rugged Box (Parametric) by Whity, which sadly is only parametric if you use Fusion 360. Sigh… I did find this Parametrizable Rugged Box (OpenSCAD) by Dochni but I don’t love it. I’ve started to try improving the code to do what I want but then I just started to write my own which I haven’t finished yet. (Note: See Rugged Parametric Box in OpenSCAD for a great new model!)

Besides a few things that give it away as 3D printed, this is another print that just does not look printed. The quality of the print is so good, and the design is top notch, so yeah… we’ve come a long way since 2011.

Anyway, the 3mm hardware is now sorted! That said, I have been using my Parts Tray with Sliding Lid for over a year now and I’ve been quite pleased with it. I may make a few changes to it though, as there are a few specific pieces of hardware I like to have at the ready.