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Komelon Tape Measure Sketch

It’s a tape measure… it’s not too exciting. I remember hanging out at Milwaukee Makerspace in 2017 doing something with Maks and he had complained that the tape measures there were all imperial. I got on the mobile and found this Komelon tape measure that had Metric and Imperial measurements and I ordered four of them as they were less than $5 USD each! I think I kept two and gave one to Maks and maybe one to Marcus. (Maks and Marcus both grew up outside the US and were fans of the Metric System.)

The Komelon quickly became my favorite tape measure. I still have both of mine in my shop and use them all the time. We do have a bunch of other tape measures around the house but I’ve had a favorite. We’ve also got Komelons at work, which is nice. It’s also worth noting that Komelon US is located in Waukesha, not far from where I am in Milwaukee.

I really enjoy doing these sketches! I do them with an Apple Pencil on an iPad using Procreate. If you ever want a framed print of any of my sketches get in touch with me and we’ll work something out… Also, check out the Illustration page to see them all!

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Falk Hammer Sketch

I did this one more than a week ago but forgot to post it! It’s the sketch version of one of the photographs I took of the Falk Hammer last year.

As mentioned in the previous post, this was my dad’s old hammer, which was forged at Falk Corporation, where he worked. It’s a nice hammer. I like it.

Yet another digital sketch done with an Apple Pencil on an iPad using Procreate. (And yes, this might make a really nice three-color relief print.)


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Pressing Handmade Paper

In a previous post titled Handmade Paper I mentioned my process of pressing the paper I make:

Once the sheets are fully dry that’s when I press them. I put each piece between a sheet of 3mm thick Baltic Birch plywood and then put the stack between two steel plates in a hydraulic press. (Here’s a press similar to the one I have.)

At least one person has asked about this so I figured providing a bit more information might be helpful. I’ll try to outline the things I use and the process below.

The mould and deckle I use makes sheets of paper that are just shy of 7″ x 7″. I make the paper, let it dry, and then peel all the pieces off the couching sheets. I then place each sheet between a piece of 3mm thick Baltic Birch plywood. (The pieces of wood are 8″ x 12″ so the paper fits with some room to spare.) I then place the stack of wood (with the paper between each sheet) between two 12″ x 12″ steel plates.

Here’s all the stuff:

This whole “sandwich” goes into the hydraulic press, and I crank it down hard. I let it sit for at least half a day, though it’s usually a full day, and if I remember I’ll go crank the press tighter if possible. After time has passed I remove all the paper and marvel at how flat and smooth it is.

The things you need (besides a hydraulic press) are the paper, which should be just dried, sheets of wood, and two pieces of steel.

The steel goes on the bottom, then a piece of wood, then the paper…

Repeat the process of stacking wood with paper in between each piece…

End with one piece of wood on top of the last piece of paper, and then put the other piece of steel on top of all that.

Stick the whole thing into the hydraulic press and crank it down! Wait a while (a few hours) and then come back and try to crank it down even further. I tend to make thick paper because it does get compressed down a bit thinner in this pressing process.

This is DIY handmade paper made with junk I have in my workshop, there’s no professional equipment or methods at work here. Still, I get some good, flat, smooth pieces. Not all of them, but most of them for sure. If I can find new ways to refine and improve the process I’ll let you know.


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Light Tracing Box

Back in the 1990s I built my own small light box. It was constructed from cardboard and had aluminum foil lining the inside along with a short fluorescent tube that was still probably 18″ long. I had a sheet of plastic for the top surface with a piece of vellum spray glued to the back. It totally worked. For a few minutes I considered building a new one using a flexible LED strip but then I looked online and realized I should just buy one.

I grabbed this LitEnergy A4 Light Tracing Box for around $16 USD, and it works well enough. I mean, just look at this description:

This tracing light pad is a sleek light-up pad, the light from the pad through the paper clearly illuminates the images, which make tracing images become easy.

Right? It works for a sheet of A4 paper (210mm x 297mm or 8.25″ x 11.75″) and the “Visual Work Area” is 304.8 x 228.6mm (9″ x 12″) which means a piece of 8.5″ x 11″ US Letter sized paper works great as well. (Calling it a “box” is a little silly though.)

The device itself is 360.68mm x 269.24mm x 5.0mm (14.2″ x 10.6″ x 0.2″) so it’s super thin and obviously pretty lightweight. That’s all good, and the only thing that bothers me is the brightness control.

Stepless Brightness Control from 0-100 % with memory function allows you to adjust illumination freely and get the same brightness the next time you turn it on.

– Adjustable Brightness — simply keep pressing the touch switch for several second until you get the desired brightness which you want.

– Memory Feature — smart memory the brightness of your last use.

When you press the power button once it turns the unit on. Press and hold it after that and it cycles up the brightness to the brightest setting and then dims it back down to the lowest setting. So to get the brightest setting you need to recognize what is the brightest and release the button at that time. It’s not the greatest. I’d prefer 5 or 10 brightness steps so you could tap the button X number of times to get what you want.

It does seem to remember the last setting you used, so as long as you only tap the power button once to power it on and don’t accidentally touch it while tracing (because it’s not a physical button but a touch control) all is good.

I always use the brightest setting but I also use 24 lb (90 GSM) paper so maybe my paper is just a little thick and more difficult to see through.

Some of the comments I’ve seen for it say things like “Works only when plugged in” and “It has to remain plugged in to use it” and, wow, no shit… you’ve purchased a device that needs power and does not have an internal battery. Some people complained the cord was too short. It’s a standard Micro USB cable, so you can get a longer one or you can use a power bank, or even plug it into a laptop for powering it (somewhat) portably. I’m surprised no one complained they can’t use it in the rain.

As for the stuff I trace, I take those drawings and digitize them with the Shaper Trace to get digital vector files.


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Using the Shaper Trace

Back in December I heard about the Shaper Trace and ordered one immediately. I normally don’t order products immediately but a few client payments all came in at the same time and I needed to spend something on new tools before the end of the year, so the Shaper Trace was it.

I am no stranger to using the the Image Trace in Adobe Illustrator or Trace Bitmap in Inkscape to convert images into vector artwork. I’ve also uses a desktop scanner dozens of times to scan an actual object or a drawing, and convert that to vector lines so I can use it in various ways. The Shaper Trace streamlines that process and makes it (in theory) as simple as taking a photo on your mobile device and letting a web site (not a locally installed app) covert it for you.

Does it work? Yes, it does work. Is it perfect? No. I mean, nothing is perfect, but it is quick and easy and as I’ve mentioned before the easier a process is the more likely I am to do it. If it takes me between 5 and 10 minutes to scan something, bring it into Inkscape, and then convert it to lines that’s not bad. But… if I can take a photo with my phone, save the file, and have it in Inkscape as a vector file in less than 60 seconds? Well that’s pretty damn good. Shaper says “From Sketch to Vector in Seconds” and it’s kind of true.

Caleb wrote up a post on Makezine back in July. I dug around but didn’t find too many other posts about it. Some forum posts, and some promotional videos, but few longer write-ups.

The idea that Shaper has is that you’ll use the Trace to capture a paper drawing, vectorize it, and then send it right to a laser cutter or CNC machine for cutting or etching, maybe with some minimal design work along the way. They show someone tracing the outline of a tool and then cutting out a pocket for the tool. I tried doing a few traces of objects and I just wasn’t pleased with the results. I’ve been using calipers and measuring things for CAD for a decade now, and I just feel like that’s a lot more accurate for my needs.

So what is this thing? It’s just a frame? Well, it’s a frame and a web app (not a mobile app) that captures an image and gives you a vector file. Note that you don’t have to perfectly align the camera directly above the drawing as the frame will compensate for angles. That’s nice. (In fact it seems that it might work better if you do shoot from a slight angle.) Each frame is the same on the front (more on that later) but on the back is a unique QR code associated to that frame, and you then register it to your account to use it. Want to share the frame with someone? You’ll need to use one account. The frame itself is just a hunk of plastic with no magic inside. And I mentioned the web app, right? A lot of people were really upset there is no local app that can work without an Internet connection. (I’d like both options, please!)

So basically you are paying a (one-time) fee to get access to an application running on the Shaper Tools web site that works with the frame. For $99 USD I guess I’m okay with that. (I will probably never buy a $2,900 USD Shaper Origin, and $99 is probably the upper limit I’d pay for a device like the Trace. It could honestly be a bit cheaper if you ask me.)

Since this post is titled “Using the Shaper Trace” I should probably explain how I use it.


Look, I made a drawing! It’s an oven mitt, in case you couldn’t tell…

I use my mobile device to load the web site and capture the drawing by placing it within the Trace frame.

The drawing is converted to vector and you can choose two options, outlines and centerline. I pretty much always use outlines since I’ve create my drawings with the idea that the outside of the line is what I want.

I save the SVG, either to my phone, a drive accessible to my computer(s), or in my case I use AirDrop to send it directly to my computer.

I think I’ve digitized a few dozen drawings with no issues. I do tend to place the Trace and drawing in good lighting and get a nice clear shot of it with the camera. Still, things can go wrong. Here’s an error I got one day. I think I closed the web page, reopened it, and tried again and it was fine. Not sure if the issue was their servers, my browser, or something else. (And of course you do need an Internet connection for it to work.)

I then sit down at the computer and open the saved file in Inkscape where I can do whatever I want with it. (I won’t get into the specifics of editing a vector file, preparing it for use with whatever machine you might be using, but hopefully you get the idea. It’s that simple.)

But Wait! What if you are at work, and your Trace is at home, and you really want to use it? Well, just use a copy. As I mentioned, all the Trace fronts are the same, so the web app doesn’t care what Trace you are using, as long as you have an account and it sees a Trace-like thing, it works just fine.

Here’s a printed out copy of the Trace frame. It’s not even my Trace, I grabbed the image from the Shaper web site and printed it on the copier at work. Neat! (Oh, some other people noticed this as well.)

Even better, you can print smaller ones. Here’s a letter size sheet of paper with four Trace frames. You can basically make them any size you want to work with the size of drawing you want…

This is really cool because if I wanted to do a small drawing with the actual Trace frame I’d still need to scan an entire sheet of paper and the drawing might be quite small on it, so this sort of lets you play with the resolution, which can make a different if you are drawing by hand, and lets you play with different pens and line width as well. This basically eliminates the need to even use the actual Shaper Trace frame.

So the Trace is an interesting tool, and I can totally see how someone might get one and it may not do what they want, and I think I felt that way at first, but the more I use it the more I am building a workflow around it, so that’s good. If you’ve got any questions about the Shaper Trace let me know!