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BlocksCAD

When it comes to 3D modeling for the majority of the 3D printing I do, I tend to turn to OpenSCAD. OpenSCAD is known as “The Programmers Solid 3D CAD Modeller”, and it’s free software available for Linux/UNIX, Windows and Mac OS X. Yeah, you create objects by writing code. It’s weird, but so am I.

If you’re one of those cloud-loving weirdos (who also uses Chrome) you can also opt to use OpenSCAD.net, which is a (blah) “browser-based” version of OpenSCAD. Sort of. It definitely has it’s usefulness (Chromebooks!) but anytime I can download and install an open source application, I’ll opt for that route.

Now, once you get used to OpenSCAD (assuming you want to) you can refer to the cheat sheet or read the entire OpenSCAD manual. But suppose you don’t exactly want to write code, or you aren’t good at it yet… Perhaps BlocksCAD can help.

Functions

BlocksCAD puts a “blocks” interface on top of OpenSCAD. You may have seen this block-thing in use with Scratch. It’s a good way to teach kids how programming works. (There’s an Arduino-ish block application call mBlock that works with the Makeblock robots. And yes, there’s lots more scratch blocks stuff out there.)

Blocks

I took a model I made in OpenSCAD last week and recreated it in BlocksCAD. It took quite a bit longer (probably because I can write code fairly quickly) but the results were good. The blocks really help show the structure of things. For anyone whose had to remember bracket placement, semicolons (and tabs & indents if you care about readable code) the blocks interface hides all of those things. Again, possibly a good thing for beginner coders.

Code

In BlocksCAD you can toggle between the blocks interface and seeing the code. This is great, as you can see the code that gets created by the blocks. Note that you cannot edit the code in the code view. This is (slightly) annoying, but I can understand why this decision was made.

There are things that BlocksCAD doesn’t support, but the basics are there. (I’d love to see comments added.) The basics are enough to get a beginner (child or adult) started with building blocks into a program that generates a 3D model. Sweet!

Share

You can also easily share the models you create. (Okay, that’s probably the one nice feature about a browser/cloud-based thingy.) You might notice from the image above that the holes are weird looking, as in, not very round. What’s going on?

Rod Holder

Here’s the original model that I created in OpenSCAD running on my computer. Note that the round holes are super-round! I get them round by adding the line:

$fn = 100;

to the top of my code. The $fn thing controls the number of facets used to generate an arc. It’s the difference between a round circle and a low-resolution circle consisting of x number of flat sides. (You can also use the $fn to allow you to quickly render models by setting the number low, and then raising the number before you do your final render.)

Rod Holder

Here’s what I got when I copied the code from the “code view” of BlocksCAD and pasted it into OpenSCAD and rendered it. Blah! Low-resolution holes. If I added my $fn = 100; line it rendered what I really wanted.

STL

Okay, so I also downloaded an STL file from BlocksCAD and it looked like this. Hmmm, much better quality than the low-resolution version I got from the code I copied. So what’s up? Well…

When you render objects in BlocksCAD there’s a “smooth” option with Low, Medium, and High settings. So, if you choose the High setting, you get a much better model. The code view doesn’t show whatever the $fn/facet setting is for the model, but it must be adding it when it does the render. Makes sense.

BlocksCAD has a few quirks, but I think it’s a great concept. While I’d love to see a downloadable version, I hope Einsteins Workshop continues to provide the web-based offering for those who want to use it.

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Experiments in Art & Digital Fabrication

Rocket

Here’s an old project I never wrote about… Every now and then I just experiment with things, and this piece started with using Inkscape for an illustration of a rocket. Here it is. Pretty boring!

Rocket digital

I ended up creating a scene for the rocket. Look, it’s going to Mars! Someday I’d like to go to Mars…

Since I tend to think of any illustration as cutting paths I tend to avoid strokes and just use solid objects, which comes in handy, especially if you decide to use digital fabrication techniques to create things.

Separations

I next took my illustration, which was essentially a two-color design on a black background) and created color separations. One for the silver, and one for the red.

Cut lines

I then created DXF files I could load into Silhouette Studio so I could cut stencils and paint the scene onto an 8″ x 8″ canvas. (Yes, sometimes I mess around with paint.) You might also notice I added registration marks, these are things you learn from years of working in the print industry and printmaking.

Rocket on canvas

Here’s the result of cutting two stencils and spray painting them onto a black canvas. It turned out okay, but I didn’t love it. (Probably because I don’t love painting.) What I do love is the fact that with vector artwork it’s easy to scale things, so I did.

Rocket on wood

Here’s a 12″ x 12″ version of the artwork, but this time I used a piece of painted wood and just applied cut vinyl to it. I really like how this one turned out. In fact, it’s hanging in the shop right now.

Sometimes I get so caught up in creating 3D (or 2.5D) work that I forget how much I like doing 2D stuff. I should probably do more in the future.

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PCB Milling on the Little CNC

PCB Milling

One of my goals with the Little CNC Milling Machine was to make my own PCBs. I’ve typically made my own printed circuit boards at home by etching them with chemicals, but the mill opens new opportunities to etch and drill the boards, so I gave it a shot.

I knew the basics, but did a a quick search for posts that might explain things a bit more. (I should note I planned to use Fritzing, Inkscape, MakerCam, and GrblController, all free/open source software available on multiple platforms.)

The two useful posts I found were: PCB designing and isolation milling using only free Software and Hello World, How to Mill Printed Circuit Boards (PCB).

OpenSCAM

I wasn’t really planning on documenting this in-depth, but I got a few photos and screenshots, so I’ll share what I can. I had some bits I grabbed from eBay, 0.1mm Carbide PCB Board 60 Degree V-shape Engraving Bits and 0.8mm Carbide PCB Endmill Engraving Bits (a total of 20 bits for under $10) to work with, so that’s what I used. (I may want to try some 45 degree bits and 0.6mm bits next time.)

Milling Traces

Here’s the “isolation milling” I did with the 60 degree engraving bit. Not bad! You can also see a little mark on the copper board where I homed the machine.

Yeah, I did not have double-sided tape, so I just taped the board down to my spoil board. The board wasn’t completely flat, and bowed slightly in the middle. I’ll use double-sided tape next time, which will also help with cutting the final profile of the board.

Set Home

I swapped the bit from engraving to drilling and drilled all the holes. It seemed to work well, so… yeah. (Sorry, no photos of drilling!) I then switched back to the engraving bit to (attempt) to cut out the board…

PCB Milled

It worked, but I miscalculated how deep it would need to cut, and ended up lowering the z home and re-running the job again. I might want to use a different bit next time. When I thought the board was cut out enough I pulled it off the machine.

Light Test

The board held up to the light. Oops! Well, the holes didn’t all work. They were close, but not quite all the way through. I ended up using my Tiny Drill Press to finish the holes, and it didn’t work very well as it was difficult to hit the center. Not great.

I also didn’t cut all the way through with the outside profile. Not a big deal for this board, as it would be easy to cut out on the band saw, but more complex boards may not have this luxury. No matter, the amount of board left was paper thin and it came right out. I’ll definitely use a different bit for the final cut next time.

Final PCB

Here’s the final board. It totally worked, but there’s plenty of room for improvement. This probably won’t be the method I use for all my boards. OSH Park does a great job and prototyping PCBs, and Seeed Studio is great for production runs, but I’ll probably mill any new boards I want to test out before sending out to a fab house. Milling also allows me to have a PCB in an hour or so, versus waiting a few weeks.

Of course I’m (sort of) limited to single sided boards, but most of my PCBs are pretty simple, so I’m not concerned yet. Also, once I master the single sided board, I’ll certainly try a two-sided board, I mean… how hard could it be!?

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3D Printer (2)

3D Print

Back in 2012 I completed the build of a 3D printer, and then I printed a lot of things… The printer wasn’t amazing or great, but it worked, and I printed and printed. Around 2015 the hot end failed, and I got a cheap hot end to replace it, which never worked right, and then other things failed, and I fixed some of them, but the old RepRap still wasn’t quite working right. I ended up getting an E3D hot end and even with that, there were some weird issues with the printer getting up to temperature properly.

I didn’t care too much about getting the old RepRap working again because I had access to printers at work or school (I even worked on building some printers) so I could still print things, but…

Maker Select Plus

I finally got to the point that I wanted a modern, working 3D printer. I solved that problem recently by picking up a Maker Select Plus from Monoprice. What? Monoprice? Yeah, the company I’ve been buying cables from for the past 5+ years sells 3D printers. And they don’t suck. The “Maker Select Plus” is (pretty much) a rebranded Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus, which is based on the Prusa i3 MK2. Confused yet?

If you get emails from Monoprice (which come more frequently than Harbor Freight emails) you’ll get some discount code or coupon or sale alert. Take advantage of those and you can save a bit on a 3D printer. And if you want cheap, look at the MP Select Mini 3D Printer, or wait until April 2017 when (supposedly) they’ll release a Mini Delta printer for $150!

The printer is nice, but not amazing. There’s a number of upgrades suggested, and besides a wiki there’s a Facebook group, Google group, and Thingiverse group filled with users making improvements and troubleshooting when needed. (Just remember that the Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Maker Select are basically the same, with a few small differences.)

Maker Select Plus

I’m excited to have more desk space! I no longer need a computer or monitor, since I can just pop an SD card in and hit “print”, so yeah, that’s a nice improvement. I’ve only printed with PLA so far, but I’ll get around to testing with ABS and see what happens. (It should be fine, but, you know…)

RepRap Prusa i2

Meanwhile the old RepRap lost its place on the desk, and currently sits on the floor awaiting its fate. I’ll do… something with it, I’m sure. 3D printers have come a long way in just five years. (At least in my shop!)

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Little CNC Milling Machine (Part II)

CNC Machine

Hopefully you’ve read Little CNC Milling Machine (Part I) in which I completed the mechanical build of a tiny CNC machine. Here’s Part II!

CNC Machine Electronics

The electronics didn’t take much time at all, it was pretty much “plug and play” as far as connecting the three stepper motors and the spindle. No stripping, cutting or crimping wires. The only issue I had was once I tried running it nothing was happening. Turns out the power supply was DOA. I found a 16 volt laptop power supply in my junk bin and tried that, and it still didn’t work (or so I thought.) I ended up cutting the barrel jack off that power supply and putting it on a 24 volt supply I found. It was then I realized that the spindle wasn’t responding because I never set the “spindle speed”. So yeah, steppers worked fine with the 16 volt power supply (but not the original 24 volt supply I got) but the spindle didn’t go, because I’m a fool. All good now! I’ve got functioning 24 volt power supply and a functioning CNC machine.

CNC Machine Electronics

I’ve used Grbl before, usually with an Arduino and a CNC Shield with some steppers. Some of these kits seem to use an Arduino Nano, but this one is its own board with an ATmega328P and a CH340 chip. So yeah, an Arduino with Grbl 0.9 pre-loaded.

There are no endstops, but it looks like there’s room on the board to add them in the future. I can think of a few other improvements as well. I may add an e-stop, or just an “on/off” switch for the power supply. One nice thing about these machines is that if you make a mistake, like jogging the head too far in one direction, you can just cut power to the motors and the software will keep going, assuming the motors are moving, and then once the software is done, you can resupply power and try again.

Oh, you might also notice that next to the spindle connector on the board is a spot to plug in the laser. Yes, there’s also a 500mw laser that can be put in place of the spindle. I’ve not really tried that yet, and have to figure out the software to control it first. (I’ll get into software in a future post.)

CNC Machine Bed

Another area that could use some improvement is the bed. Attaching things with the screws meant to attach things to the Aluminum extrusion is not great. I’ll work on a better clamping system. (Maybe a 3D printed piece, not sure yet.)

You might also notice I left the lead screws hanging in mid-air. I did have a little bit of a binding issue with the x axis, so I just removed both lead screw holders. I think it’ll work fine without them, as the lead screws are not that long.

CNC Machine Collet

The machine came with two tiny collets that allow you to attach bits to the spindle shaft. It also came with super-small set screws. I’m pretty sure I’ll lose the screws, but…

M3 Set Screws

…luckily a few years ago my friends at Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories sent me a lifetime supply of M3 set screws of various sizes. I think I’m good!

CNC Machine Electronics

And yes, I did actually mill something. I’ll cover that in the next post. Overall I have to say I’ve been pleased with this machine (so far, it’s still early, obviously.) It was easy to put together and it works. Once I get things dialed in I’ll look into milling PCBs, and foam, and wax, and chocolate…

Stay Tuned!