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Dying Plastic

I sometimes need something a certain color, and this time it was a purple button. I could not purchase a purple button, but I could purchase a white button and some purple dye. So the idea is that you can dye plastic like anything else… sort of. It’s complicated.

I got some Rit Dye Liquid after I had ready you could mix it with a bit of acetone and dye plastic with it. Now, there is a Rit product called DyeMore which supposedly will also work, and maybe work better, but the tutorials I found talked about heating up the dye and acetone to a specific temperature, and that seemed like a lot of faff and not something I wanted to do in the kitchen and while I could attempt it in the shop I opted to try the “cold” method first.

As you can see I was excited that it seemed to work. I tried just the bottom end and it turned purple!

Sadly when I tried to do the important part (the part you actually see when the button is mounted) the color I got was much different. I don’t know what changed. I probably did add more dye and more acetone, so maybe I threw off the ratio or something?

The dye job itself turned out pretty good! It’s just… not the color I wanted. I started to wonder if the plastic is more finished / polished at the top side. It’s possible, but unlikely. This is probably another case of me doing bad science and not properly measuring things and recording things. But to be fair, this was my first attempt.

I don’t know if there will be a second attempt. It would mean using (wasting) more buttons, and I don’t know that I want to color a bunch of buttons without a client paying for it just in the name of science. But it’s good to know it does work if needed. Though getting the correct color may prove a challenge.

I really wish I could have got that nice purple color throughout the whole thing! It could also be timing… Maybe I let it sit in the solution for two long. Again, lack of good data here.

I should note than when I asked for advice a few people said “What kind of plastic is it?” but sadly, I do not know. These are just arcade buttons I buy from a reseller, and they come with no such information. Oh well!


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Rugged Box Silicone Gasket Seal (Part III)

Did you read Rugged Box Silicone Gasket Seal (Part I) and Part II where I attempted (and succeeded!) at using CHANGTIKEJI Silicone Mold “Super Elastic Liquid Silicone” to make a gasket (seal) for these 3D printed rugged boxes?

Well, here’s the next installment. In Part II we tried to pour the silicone directly into the groove on the bottom half of the enclosure. Which worked but failed, so I guess it didn’t work. There were other factors at play, so I think it could work in some cases. Nevertheless, we’re going to try to “glue” this existing seal into place using silicone.

So this time we took the existing box and seal which do work fine, but have the bothersome quirk of the gasket not staying in place and falling out when you open the box. I drizzled just a little bit of silicone into the groove in the bottom part, then inserted the seal and put some weights on it to press it down into the uncured silicone. In theory the uncured silicone should stick (somewhat) to the 3D printed plastic, and adhere fully to the silicone seal, sort of “gluing” it into place.

Did it work? It did work, as far as it has not fallen out. It seems to be held in place. I have not tried to pull it out, as I am sure I could do so, but the idea was to just prevent it from falling out every time I open the box, so there is some success there for sure.

But remember this seal was made for a box that had a 1mm gap added in for the seal, so more space to fill means a larger/thicker gasket. I think this made everything a little easier.

As I’ve noted before, there’s a bit more experimentation to be done, but I’ve learned a few things in the process so far, and that’s what it’s all about!

See Also: Rugged Box Silicone Gasket Seal (Part II) and Rugged Box Silicone Gasket Seal (Part I).


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Rugged Box Silicone Gasket Seal (Part II)

If you read Rugged Box Silicone Gasket Seal (Part I) you read about how I used CHANGTIKEJI Silicone Mold “Super Elastic Liquid Silicone” to make a gasket (seal) for these 3D printed rugged boxes.

But I wasn’t completely happy with the results…

I sort of wish there was a way to “glue” it into place, but you can’t exactly glue silicone, because it doesn’t really stick to anything! I do have an idea for that…

The one thing I don’t like with this one is that it easily falls out. If this is a box you open a lot you’ll probably get annoyed with it falling out on occasion.

So I wanted to try a few thing to solve those annoying issues…

Someone on Mastodon had the idea to pour the silicone directly into the groove of the box. (I can’t seem to find that reply right now!) I thought I should try that. It was not easy. It was messy. And I had to do it twice. The first time I leveled off the silicone with a wooden popsicle stick. Once it dried it sort of sunk down a bit… I did it again, this time dripping (drizzling?) it into the groove just a little at a time with a popsicle stick. That gave me a lot more control versus pouring way too much. (Luckily it peels off when dry.)

One other issue is that once dry the lid would not close! I ended up shaving down the lock just a bit and using some good pressure to close it. Again, I may need to mess around with the TSealHeight parameter to get things just right.

Finally, I tested it for water-tightness by doing to paper towel submersion test and… it failed. So not water-tight, and not a good fit.

Also, while the idea to “glue it in place” by pouring the silicone directly in was a good one… it just came out very easily. Maybe because it was so thin.

Anyway, this was a good test! I have another test that I just finished, so keep an eye out for the next post!

See Also: Rugged Box Silicone Gasket Seal (Part III) and Rugged Box Silicone Gasket Seal (Part I).


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Meshtastic Begin

What is Meshtastic? “An open source, off-grid, decentralized, mesh network built to run on affordable, low-power devices”… It’s a system of small Long Range (LoRa) radios that form a mesh network to provide text communications. It allows texting from your phone (or computer) even without the grid. If the power is out, all your computers are offline, the cellular networks are all down… you can still communicate. Meshtastic does not require the Internet, the cell networks, or any other grid-based things. (Also, Read the Docs!)

The details of how it technically works are explained very well by Austin Mesh: Can you explain it like I’m five years old?

So my old pal Matt got me interested in this because we live close enough that we should be able to use it between our houses. We haven’t yet, but we’re still working towards that. There do not seem to be other nodes in the area, which is crucial to a mesh network…

So in the meantime as we experiment and figure things out and test antennas and different hardware, there is research and reading and learning to be done. And testing, and building solar-powered nodes that can live 25 feet up and there is 3D printing and messing around with electronics, and… it’s been a nice distraction that we hope will be useful someday when others join us.

So for now, I am dropping this post here to say we are here, join us. If you’re in Milwaukee or Wauwatosa or close by or in the Greater Milwaukee Area, let me know. There is also a Meshconsin group, and a map of nodes (with many missing of course) and a Discord server.

And in future posts I’ll explain a bit more about the photos and screenshots in this post, so Stay Tuned!

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A 50 Year Old Raleigh Bike

I’ll just admit it, this post is mostly to share photos of an old bike. This is a 1970’s Raleigh 3-speed bicycle. I don’t know the exact year. I rode it today for three miles and I nearly kept my normal pace.

The shifting isn’t perfect but the brakes are good. It feels pretty solid. It’s not as smooth as my Trek 7200 Hybrid but it’s 50 years old and has skinnier tires and no suspension. I just rode around the neighborhood for around 16 minutes. Also, it was 25 degrees F when I was out.

It’s got a three-speed internal hub shifting thing. I tend to ride in low gears a lot, and even in first gear the one hill I went up was a little difficult. (My wonky knee didn’t help.) Still, for tooling around on a fun ride, this thing is just fine.

There are no lights, the reflector is angled all weird, no phone holder, no 3D printed mount for a Meshtastic radio, no top bar bag… just a bike.

There is a bag (appears to be “fake” leather) and a bike rack on the back. The bag is probably also original, and the rack is probably also from the 1970s.

The sticker with info is all scratched up… I tried to identify it when I got it but gave up after some searching. (Feel free to keep looking and let me know!)

Yeah, you know its got fenders! I’d say this bike was well maintained but it may also be that it was just not ridden in the past 20, 30, 40(??) years. I don’t know. I’ll ask around. It was in my mom’s garage so it probably belonged to a family member.

Update: It did not belong to a family member. Years ago my brother helped my mom clear out the garage of someone who passed away and they got the bike at this time.

The shifter works… mostly. It didn’t always shift smoothly and sometimes I was not sure what gear I was in.

It looks like Wares is gone now… Support your LBS!

The Raleigh is from England. Yes, I have a British bike! You should hear its accent. (LOL)

Oh crap! I better renew the bike license… Actually, I should list this on Bike Index and you should list all your bikes on Bike Index!

I am probably the first person in 50 years to take a self portrait (aka “selfie”) using the bell on this bike. I am both proud and ashamed at the same time.

P.S. I put new tires on this bike in 2025!

Keep on pedaling!